Wearing a Hawaiian-style Valentino shirt, “Schitt’s Creek” co-designer Dan Levy kicked off Paris Fashion Week via an LA video last Tuesday. Calling himself a “lifelong fashion fan,” Levy recounted how his own experiences costuming characters from his hit series – including the high-end looks he donned as David Rose – had given him yet again. more respect for the role clothes play in people’s lives. “A well-designed piece of clothing can help you stand a little taller, wear yourself a little more confidently, and express who you are without ever having to say a word,” he said.
Dan Levy speaking at the virtual opening of the Paris Fashion Week men’s shows. Credit: Courtesy of FHCM / Paris Fashion Week
On the catwalks, long kilts and other non-sexist silhouettes mixed with sportswear and classic military cuts, monochromes, flowers and animal prints in black and white. Many of the biggest trends seen over the six days of shows were discovered in the 1990s – a decade that has become a fashion hotspot – as a crop of new labels grounded in principles of sustainability and community. looked to the future. Only a handful of collections showcased live this season, with most designers showcasing their latest looks via shorts or digital online shows.
Recalling a time when “menswear was relegated to the background of the boutique,” Levy reflected on the evolution of menswear, offering more choices than ever before. “We can now wear Thom Browne kilts instead of dress pants, lemon yellow sequined turtlenecks instead of button down shirts,” he said.
Read on for all the highlights from the shows.
Rapper Travis Scott looked both happy and relieved as he kissed his collaborator Kim Jones, artistic director of Dior Men’s, on the catwalk after the unveiling of the brand’s new collection. One of the few live shows at Paris Fashion Week, the Jones and Scott collaboration offered silky layered ensembles in monochrome whites, lilacs and pinks, as well as bold combinations of brown and daytime green. Basquiat-style flourishes adorned blouse-like shirts, and 70s flares crept onto the much-anticipated skateboarder sneakers from the Cactus Jack Dior collection, named after Scott’s record label – and a tribute to its Texan roots. Scott’s home state also helped inspire the series’ trippy set design, with overgrown cacti and mushrooms growing in a mock desert landscape. Behind the scenes and off the show, a seemingly starving celebrity press has pushed for access to Scott, one of the few big names to attend fashion week amid the ongoing pandemic.
Dior collaborated with rapper Travis Scott this spring-summer 2022 season Credit: Yannis Vlamos / Dior
Deeeeeep (house) 90s
High-tide trends in ’90s culture once again received the haute couture treatment this season, including Burberry’s sand-swept techno party, with heavily drilled models in deconstructed versions of the classic trench coat from the mark, dancing to the psych-trance band Shpongle. “So many of my memories forged by music take me back to an incredible time when I discovered myself – my voice, my identity, my creativity – sharing my experiences with friends and sometimes even strangers along the way,” the conductor said. from Burberry. creative director Riccardo Tisci in a statement. “It was like being on a universal journey, brought together by a collective sense of openness, acceptance and opportunity.”
Burberry Credit: Burberry
And the ’90s played in Louis Vuitton’s poppy palette of bright yellows and greens and so much, so much purple. Graphic prints and gradient patterns covered cream leather bomber jackets; wide-leg jeans with neon acid house details falling over slip-on shoes; shell suits were paired with earmuffs and high tops; a head to toe channeled purple Teletubby Tinky Winky set. The label’s 17-minute film saga featured classic tracks from GZA’s 1995 album “Liquid Swords” from the Wu-Tang clan. Directed by Louis Vuitton Menswear Artistic Director Virgil Abloh, “Amen Break” depicts a series of noble battles – from samurai swordplay to chess to bojutsu – and features GZA himself rapping on a chess board in a dojo, as well as drumming and pioneering bass Goldie in, yes, a purple seashell costume.
Accessories at Louis Vuitton Credit: Philippe the Deaf
Models dressed in camouflage bombers and colorful square shirts paraded through Antwerp neighborhoods on Primal Scream’s British anthem “Loaded” for Dries Van Noten, and Loewe’s homage to club culture included eclectic graphic prints and color combinations photographed by David Sims, a regular contributor to The Face and iD, the style-defining publications of the era.
Pixelated zags sported short, tapered pirarucu fish-skin vests for Rick Owens, while Portuguese costume specialist Ernest W Baker mixed black and white stripes with polka dots on playful sweater vests to wear alone or in the frame for a layered look. Issey Miyake’s soft pleated coats and pants had animal print comfort and appeal – potential loungewear options for the outside world.
Stripes turned into spots in an 8-minute film by creative director duo Jil Sander, Lucie and Luke Meier. Black and white leopard prints covered fuzzy zipper vests and long-billed baseball caps, with front-pleated pants tucked in military style in tall combat boots topped with knee-length trenches and longer . Shot like a washed-out dreamy haze, the film shows models wandering in and out of an inauspicious hotel room, while music from rock artists Suicide mixes with a voiceover telling some truths of the lockdown: “Here I am from again, back to where I started – how long has it been this time? ” asks a voice. “Days, weeks, months, years?” Hard to tell, the weather is different inside. It’s daylight, it’s dark, how many times?
As more luxury brands turn to new, more sustainable materials, Loewe’s use of cactus leather was notable, as was Danish mainstay Henrik Vibskov’s work with recycled plastic bottles. Other labels have mapped out the future – and the issues facing society – in more conceptual ways.
Gravalot Credit: Onye Anuna
Speaking in the face of the “turbulence” of a “post-Brexit world, limiting the Covid”, the young British label Gravalot, co-founded by Onye Anuna and Prince Comrie, presented a collection aptly named “Staying afloat, just” , in a multi-storey car park in London. According to a statement, the headline is a comment on the precarious position in which many small brands currently find themselves. Self-defined as an “Afro-contemporary menswear brand rooted in the historical exploration and progression of black cultures”, Gravalot works with local artisans. and British heritage fabrics to create carefully crafted and hand-sewn garments – offered this season in an understated color palette, including stylish checks and florals on button-down shirts and relaxed suit jackets.
Phipp, another young label, presented “It Starts Now”, a sci-fi inspired film starring men and women dressed in soccer jerseys, wrestling costumes and tropical Boy Scout outfits. , presented at the repeated song of “Equality”. While “Upcycle Yourself” was the message of the Parisian “fashion art activism” collective Andrea Crews, known for its unique pieces made from leftover fabrics. Heavily patched jeans and ragged shirts ensured skin-revealing looks of the models who gathered like a bunch of young friends. “We are carrying the fashion revolution on tall, short, tall and beautiful bodies,” the text of the video said. “Fashion is everywhere and so are we.”