Maison Alaïa: Pieter Mulier makes his debut with Panash and Punch


Azzedine Alaía was by no means an easy move, but an elite audience gladly greeted him in a wooden folding chair in the street outside the historic headquarters of the house – Peter Murrier impressed. Announcement of a first spectacular and sculptural collection, a natural standing ovation.

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Murrier had strict respect for the brand’s DNA, but he didn’t follow it lazy. He played with multiple Alaïa references – stretch crêpes. Perforated leather; sculpted cocktail. Amazonia leggings and Venetian blind columns, all with their own twist.

Her figure-hugging stretch cocktails, finished with a skullcap, were all pretty sensational. Her stretch wool flamenco dress, finished with feathers below the knees, was shiny.

Alaia was never designed to reduce purple or greenhouse flowers, nor was Murrier designed. Like Azedin, the cast of Murrier walked like a powerful heroine. From the quartet of a beautiful woman who brooded the street in a semi-shear column that caresses the body. For a well-constructed vest finished in the Collar and Grace Jones style. For a shawl-colored denim jumpsuit. To a large cloak of screen goddess feathers.

In addition, Murrier also mixed some great accessories – a giant rawhide tote bag and braided leather trims. Or a cool half-moon crossbody bag.

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Known as a close friend of the models who put on Alaia’s latest show, including Yasmin Le Bon, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell, in fact most of Azedin’s actors over the past few years have been local. She was a person and a woman with a personality he admired.

On the other hand, Mulier is by Mica Argañaraz and Rianne Von Rompaey. Liya Kebede and Natasha Poly. Obviously, homeowner, luxury conglomerate Richemont, and Alaïa’s composed and stylish CEO Miriam Serrano, there is a budget to support Mulier’s vision.

Somewhat eccentric, the cast followed the sidewalk in chains for the first 50 meters and entered the track before entering the 100-meter-long footbridge in the heart of the Marais district.

Another downside was the exciting lighting. This means that most viewers have seen the backlit model. Not really wise with us Instagram The times. Oddly enough, Thierry Dreyfus, the best light director in French fashion, was seated in the front row as a fan, not as a producer of the show. His talent has been lost.

Maison Alaïa-Photo:

But these are small problems on a quite clever exhibition of Murrier. The show shows that a designer of Belgian origin historically made his debut as a full-fledged creative director. During his remarkable career he has been the right hand man of Raf Simons in Milan, Paris and New York – Jil Sander, Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, respectively.

Everything he did wasn’t overdone, like the mini eggplant-colored ruffle pancake cocktail. The same goes for the Stretch biker shorts with metallic tops and studded clogs at the heel.

Yet before the model’s release, the unspoken question was whether Murrier could rank it number one. Based on this evidence, he should have a very successful career at home, with full respect for the founder’s work.

Maison Alaïa-Photo:

Before the show, Murrier left a letter praising Azedin in place of each guest. You were a sculptor and a genius of the hand. Your fashion had an extraordinary heart and intelligence: accuracy, modernity and a mixture of poetry. “

When asked how he felt after his debut, Murrier replied: And I was very happy that everyone saw the letter. I wanted to underline the reasons for respecting this unique house and a unique designer. ”

In the final, Murrier received a big round of applause from the front row, including many old friends of the house – from the great man of architecture. Jean Nouvel, To LVMH Sydney Toledano To Pier Paolo Piccioli from Valentino.

“Beautiful! I think Azzedine enjoyed the collection very much, and so did I. I know that Pieter designed Alaïa and that the future of the house is bright,” said Alaïa for many years. Partner Christoph Von Weyhe was enthusiastic.

Von Weyhe revealed to that Mulier invited him to visit him to see the progress of the collection, but he blamed him. “I told Peter I wanted to see the whole statement, and I’m glad I waited,” winked von Weihe.

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