“This [collection] really puts football at the heart, from the subtle reference in the Subbuteo booth, the models are on the character. He’s a character that has always interested me, “Rose explained to me after the presentation.” He comes back all the time in various collections and again showed up in AW21, a casual-raver-raver football vibe. Football culture has it all, like a Shakespeare play. It can be tragic, angry, some characters are really nice, some aren’t and I find it so interesting.
The resulting garments are imbued with a sober, patio-inspired level of skeeze unique to Rose. The kind of used leather biker jackets you find in thrift stores paired with 1980s style white jersey turtlenecks and matching leather leggings the kind of faded high waisted jeans your dad might have worn to watch the Arsenal at the time and, well, more guys (oversized popper versions being especially preferred), the look was dangerous and familiar at the same time. Edgy, absolutely, but wearable and sexy – in a dirty way – too.
“Kinky-looking pants in denim, leather and cargo styles adorned with rhinestones exemplify Martine Rose’s penchant for bad taste – the cleverly twisted mentality of considering leggings for a formal occasion,” read the notes sent after the spectacle, which hit the deformed nail on the head.