For his first collection as a corresponding member in Paris sewing calendar, Ulyana Sergeenko followed a darker and less romantic path.
Inspired by the Karelia region of northwest Russia, with its lakes, dense, dark forests, and heritage steeped in myth, her somber silhouettes combined sharp angles with corseted corsets in a palette of steel gray, cold blues, silver and black. Leather corsets, garter belts and sock stockings evoked eroticism, perhaps meant to reinforce the sense of mystery, while the models’ faces were covered in hand-knitted mesh hoods adorned with pearls and of crystals.
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Continuing on from his spring collection, the silhouettes and graphic elements are reminiscent of the 1920s, while Sergeenko’s plunging necklines go back in time to the beginning of the 19th century.
Its embellishments, made by traditional Russian craft workshops, were also less whimsical, echoing the sharper, geometrically shaped silhouettes meant to evoke the shingles of Kizhi Pogost, an elaborate domed church on the island of the same name. . These were accompanied by mystical symbols referring to solar symbols meant to ward off evil, as seen on the undulating fringed bead layers of a corset, or in the perforated pattern of a dramatic leather coat dress.
Launch gallery: Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Fall 2021