Serge Ruffieux, designer of funky shoes for Carven, launches an accessories brand


His tenure at Carven was brief, but Serge Ruffieux made a strong impression, especially with inventive and festive shoes that burst with pom poms, pom poms and color – like fireworks at his feet.

Now he’s back with a new brand that initially hinged on flats and jewelry glasses. Named 13 09 SR after his date of birth and initials, it will debut at Paris Fashion Week in October with around seven shoe styles, including a sneaker and three sunglasses.

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Its co-founder in the company is journalist Emilie Faure, who left Le Figaro last February to work with Ruffieux, who will focus on creative issues while she runs the company, and collaborates with him on communication.

Disclosing the new project exclusively to WWD, Ruffieux said he wanted to focus the brand on what he called “happy shopping,” insisting that accessories like shoes and sunglasses don’t just end. an outfit, but have the potential to define them.

Since leaving Carven at the end of 2018 after a three-season stint, Ruffieux has been designing ghost collections and store concepts for a large established Chinese fashion retailer that he is not free to name.

At the same time, it feeds the 13 09 SR project, which revolves around sustainable and artisanal production. Through word of mouth, he found Italian suppliers of dead fabrics and leather to fuel his initial shoe production, which will be in Romania and Italy.

The eyewear is also made from eco-friendly acetate and some reused elements, and made by a small, family-owned eyewear company in Cortina, Italy.

Retail prices for the first spring 2022 offer will range from around 380 to 700 euros for shoes, with glasses around 350 euros. Ruffieux said he and Faure are signing a showroom that operates in Milan, London and Paris, and will also take bulk orders during a presentation at Paris Fashion Week.

The 13 09 SR collections will also be sold directly to consumers via an online store. Ruffieux said he has no fixed ideas about the next category he and Faure might launch, believing lipstick will fit into their concept of “happy shopping”.

Born in the Vallée de Joux in northwestern Switzerland, the cradle of high-end watchmaking, Ruffieux first stood out after Raf Simons left Dior in 2015, when he became co-director artistic with Lucie Meier for a few seasons. He had worked for Dior for eight years, becoming chief designer of Dior’s women’s ready-to-wear and haute couture studios, and before that he spent five years at Sonia Rykiel.

A graduate of the Haute École d’Art et de Design in Geneva, he began his career in fashion at Moschino. Faure holds a management diploma from the Institut Français de la Mode.

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