Couture in Paris is not just a big global brand that dresses the most spoiled millionaire women in the world. It is also a question of galloping experimentation and fashionable irony, as evidenced by the three collections published on Tuesday. Alexandre Votier, Victor & Rolf and Ronald van der Kemp.
Alexander Votier: A story of two cities
“Don’t you think the darkness reflects this moment,” commented Alexander Votier, a Parisian fashion designer who sent the entire collection to London to be filmed by Ares der McClellan.
East London photographers shot both Votier’s lookbooks and demo videos, tying the British grain to his Garrick charm.
After all, almost all of Alexander’s Fall / Winter 2021 collection was almost entirely black, with hints of crystal and silver, and his reaction to this bleak summer of endless pandemics.
It’s dark, but dashing and devilish. From majestic leather jackets sculpted like orchids to the dresses of the goddess of screens in black crepe jersey at the neckline.
And certainly a seam with all the special work that it means. Like a large leopard leather glove / studded jacket in a little crystal shower, thanks to some shiny Lesage embroidery. Or a beautiful performance by Lesage, a slip dress in icicle and crystal fragments.
Arguably Vaithier’s most striking look was the sequined dress, which only suits the best nightclubs. Lesage is part of Chanel’s ParafectionA group recently opened a huge new center called 19M in the north-east of Paris, bringing together more than 12 suppliers specializing in couture.
Certainly, it looks like the whole season has been hit by 19M, Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri who praises center in paradise.
Asked about it, Vauthier replied: To be honest, every time I go once a week and I have the impression of having witnessed a miracle to complete this collection ”, he said. he admits.
Victor & Rolf: Royal Nostalgia
Although they refused to reveal whether they were monarchists, Victor & Rolf was clearly obsessed with the royal family, despite the great amount of irony.
All the looks from their latest couture collection have kept Mickey away from the aristocrats. Suddenly, Henry VIII meets Danny Larou or Honey Dijon goes out with Prince Charles.
“Recently there has been a lot of unrest over the monarchy. It got us thinking about how loyalty looks like the fashion system. There are kings and queens. This hierarchy; what’s going on behind the scenes We also have to continue the show, which made us think of the concept of fake rather than real, ”explained pale Rolf Snoelen.
Use patchwork brocade or royal jacquard-type twist fabrics, or biodegradable faux daygrofers made from strips of raffia. Or a faux jewel to create an artistically substitute version of royal formal wear.
Their Disney inspiration A fake pearl crown and a queen found in Perspextiara. Sash was full of sayings: “Become a queen, not a drug.” “Royal Pains in the ass” or “Princess? Not a bitch, a queen!
Ironically, the duo actually became a knight in their native Netherlands in October 2018 under the Order of the Lion of the Netherlands, which was recognized for their achievements within the Dutch Royal Family in the fields of art. , science, sport and literature. ..
A painting in the neoclassical Oratory of the Breath, a monument built where the bones of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were finally buried, presented the appearance of 12 royal families on Stockman.
Where are they royalty?
“I think the message of this collection is that everyone believes in the monarchy, and I think that’s where Marie-Antoinette ended and it’s a really beautiful place,” said Victor Horsting. I blamed you.
Vaccine for the spirit of Ronald van der Kemp
One of the fashion voices always worth hearing is Ronald van der Kemp, the most destructive Dutch couture of all time, whose latest collection is dubbed ‘Mind Vaccine’.
“It’s the fashion equivalent of ethical designer drugs. People talk about diversity and I am talking about biodiversity. Fashion can’t keep doing a lot of collections that people don’t need, so I’ll take care of the leftovers, ”Ronald insisted. Ronald presented his collection directly through Rendezvous at the Dutch Embassy on Grenell Street.
A simulated syringe filled with blood placed on a stand greeted visitors to the elegant mansion. A bold gothic dress was placed on the first half-dozen steps of the embassy’s red carpet.
Recognized as a master of upcycling even before the term was invented, Van der Kemp sources from a large unused stock of major residential and rural textile specialists in Paris.
One of the beautifully colored chiffon archive has turned into a stunning patchwork bustier. Meanwhile, the golden raffia court has turned into a gorgeous full skirt covered with multiple chains.
Its head office originated in the south of the Netherlands, but is located near the Singel flower market, the Grand Canal in Amsterdam. He cut his teeth in design in New York, worked for the great Bill Brass, then returned to Europe. In Europe these days it’s all about tailoring and has a lot of sharp irony.
The manifesto next to the syringe says, “Prepare for responsible hedonism.”
Ronald also glued the line of dead flower moss, cut it and glued it into a gorgeous Sylvain jacket that appears organically grown. A series of old denim jeans have been ripped into small thongs and are reborn as a shaggy “faux fur” jacket with lace inserts.
“We ban fake fur, not just the real one. I admire designers who take an eco-friendly stance, but frankly, faux fur is made of plastic, which is a much worse environment than the real thing. Van der Kemp insisted.
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