As Paris Fashion Week heats up, here’s everything you need to know about shoes – from the runway to showrooms to the streets. In addition, collaborations not to be missed.
Friday October 1
On the track: Loewe
Jonathan Anderson has created a psychedelic and surreal collection for Loewe’s Spring / Summer 22 collection. The turning heads this season have come in the form of simple strappy sandals. From the front, the shoes appeared to be in their normal shape, however, her heels were fashioned into an array of objects including a broken egg, nail polish, pink birthday candles, and a short-stemmed rose.
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Presentation News: New Sustainable Collection by Pierre Hardy
Pierre Hardy used the extra time he had during the pandemic to build a more sustainable future for his label. The result? A new collection called Planet, which is around 80% sustainable, says the designer.
“We had to reconsider different materials and manufacturers,” he said. “I wanted to make it different, but not to make it look different. Some styles are exactly the same as the main collection. I wanted to know if it was possible to create the same shoe in a sustainable way.
The new Planet collection, now in its second season, uses eco-friendly materials on iconic Hardy designs, from the cube print to geometric sneakers.
The designer relaunched old leather stocks and used regenerated nylon as a key material. He also used a recycled material for the soles and tanned leather without chrome or metal for the lining.
Going forward, the designer plans to incorporate all of his new sustainability learnings into the main collection.
“It makes you discover another way of working. It’s like a laboratory in which we can experiment, ”he said.
Thursday September 30.
On the track: Rick Owens + Chloé
For spring ’22, Rick Owens made a statement with a line of extreme, gladiator-like platform sandals. The look of the leather included panels that went well above the knee and straps that hooked across the entire leg. There were also platforms designed with a plexiglass block heel and fuzzy leggings. The rest of the collection included sculptural looks, from cutout dresses to jackets with exaggerated shoulders.
Courtesy of Owenscorp
At Chloé, artistic director Gabriela Hearst put sustainability at the forefront for the label’s Spring / Summer 22 collection. On the track, a new style of sneaker, called Nama, uses 80% less water and emits 35% less greenhouse gases than its previous Sonnie model. Next, a range of sandals were presented in partnership with Ocean Sole, a Kenya-based non-profit organization. The sandals were designed with multi-colored soles made from recycled flip flops collected from the ocean.
Presentation news: Short musical film by Roger Vivier
Roger Vivier’s creative director, Gherardo Felloni, released his Spring 22 musical short, “Flooded” on Thursday at Paris Fashion Week. The spot, inspired by a music video from the 90s, features a theme song called “Floodland” – which was both composed and sung by the creative director, who spent six years studying opera. (The creator also formed an imaginary group for the occasion, called the Wuthering Cats.)
The film, directed by Andrea Danese, follows a lonely young boy who finds a Roger Vivier box with his mother’s memories – and discovers a whole new world in the process when the song “Floodland” begins. At the end of the film, Isabella Rossellini makes an appearance, encouraging the boy to be himself and follow his dreams. Anna Cleveland also stars in the film.
To find out more about the Spring ’22 collection, Click here.
Presentation News: The Immersive Experience of Christian Louboutin
Christian Louboutin has explored various digital formats over the past few seasons – at a time when the pandemic has stopped in-person presentations – including augmented reality, 3D and games.
This week, the label unveiled “Loubillusions”, a digital / physical hybrid event in a former foundry turned into a digital museum. Four events designed by Louboutin’s internal team – including a Japanese garden and golden waterfalls – played in a continuous loop on giant screens from floor to ceiling. And while there were IRL products scattered throughout the space, the oversized digital versions of the styles, displayed as part of the animations, were equally compelling.
To find out more about Louboutin’s spring-summer 22 collection, see here.
Wednesday September 29
On the track: Balmain
It was one of the most anticipated events of Paris Fashion Week – and that of Olivier Rousteing 10th anniversary show for Balmain definitely delivered. Beyoncé, who has worn Balmain looks on countless occasions, like her memorable performance at the Coachella music festival in 2018, honored Rousteing with a heartwarming speech to open the show. Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Karen Elson and other models paraded the runway in a touching finale. As for the designs, the designer revealed he suffered burns in an accident about a year ago that inspired the collection.
Tuesday September 28
On the track: Saint Laurent + Dior
After a Milanese season that ushered in the return of the evening shoe, expectations are high for the Paris Collections – and shoes too. And so far the designers are delivering.
As the Saint Laurent open show, the audience heard the heartwarming sound of heels clicking. And once the lights were on, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello’s dizzying platforms – immediately evoking iconic Tribute style – and pointy pumps were in full view as the models wobbled across the floor. track in sexy bodysuits and evening looks. Accessories, from leather gloves to flashy jewelry, were also highlights.
Earlier at Dior, the other big show of the day, the shoes were a little more grounded, with Go-go boots inspired by the 1960s and low-heeled Mary Janes, the shoes of the day for Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Party scene: here is the bride in Nodaleto
Fresh out of his buzzy collaboration with Heaven by Marc Jacobs, Nodaleto has more breaking news – the launch of her bridal collection.
“All of my friends kept asking me to design their wedding shoes, and I’m getting married next summer as well,” said the co-founder and designer of Nodaleto. Julia Toledano, who plans to walk down the aisle in the south of France. The designer held his court Tuesday during a cocktail party in the future Parisian home of Dover Street Market.
In classic Nodaleto style, the designer reinvented her chunky Mary Jane platform in a white silk version with crystal buckles. There’s also a western-inspired bridal boot, with a touch of “something blue”.
While sneakers aren’t this season’s major story, Puma caused a sensation on the Koché track.
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