The eyes. Aberrant ears. Golden fingers and toes. By now, the details of Daniel Roseberry’s ode to Schiaparelli are better known to the general public, in large part thanks to Beyoncé’s avant-garde look at the Grammys earlier this year, with her “Beetlejuice” earrings. And his black leather opera gloves with golden tips.
Since signing as the brand’s artistic director in 2019, Roseberry has skillfully reintroduced fashion circles and the masses into the wonderful and wacky world of Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian fashion designer who was once Coco Chanel’s rival. and helped usher in the true modern fashion of the 20th century.
For Spring 22, Roseberry continued with the surreal codes he established as the new Schiaparelli. But this time, he took them to new places, imagining what his visionary predecessor might have worn in his own private life. “Who was she when she stepped off the stage, when she was alone, far from the scintillating Parisian demi-monde? Roseberry asks in the collection’s press release. “What does the Schiaparelli woman wear when she is not – to use a beloved drag term – servant?” “
In one half of the collection, Roeseberry imagines Elsa in town. It is a collection of loose but perfectly tailored suits, jackets, sleazy pants and the usual new Schiaparelli accessories. In the other half, it’s Elsa on vacation, in an imaginary seaside town clad in 1920s swim trims, descending to wedge shoes adorned with gold toes.
There’s something for every Elsa, including Cardi B, whose penchant for avant-garde fashion makes her the perfect Schiaparelli muse. As today’s pop culture fashion icons continue to push their limits, a brand like Schiaparelli is well positioned to become a more household name.
As hard to imagine today, rival brand Chanel was once in the same position as Schiaparelli barely ten years ago: asleep, somewhat forgotten, perhaps mismanaged. It wasn’t until former owner Alan Wertheimer took over the business from her father Jacques in the late 1970s, repositioning her No.5 perfume and hiring Karl Lagerfeld that Chanel began to rise to the status that ‘she holds today.
This is all to say that the age of Schiaparelli may be upon us.