A new era at Bottega Veneta: discover Matthieu Blazy’s first collection

The designer’s understated Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a highly anticipated event at Milan Fashion Week.

The designer’s understated Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a highly anticipated event at Milan Fashion Week.

When it was announced that creative director Daniel Lee was leaving Italian brand Bottega Veneta, the fashion industry erupted in a shocking state of confusion. Lee, who had run the heritage house since 2018, had transformed the once-stagnant brand with soft, cushioned accessories, minimalist ready-to-wear and, of course, the signature “Bottega Green”.

Although speculation over who would take the reins of the house included a host of high-profile industry names, it was ultimately Belgian Mathieu Blazy who was chosen as the brand’s new creative director. Blazy, a longtime Lee collaborator, has an impressive resume that includes stints at Balenciaga, Maison Margiela, Cèline and Calvin Klein. Today, the designer unveiled his highly anticipated debut collection for Fall/Winter 2022, a delightful display of laid-back suits and thoughtful pieces.

While Blazy’s debut wasn’t a stark departure from design tenants Bottega Veneta, the Belgian has certainly made his creative presence known. Starting with a pair of low rise denim looks, Blazy then found her footing with relaxed suits and a focus on leather work. Aside from the occasional feather or fringe, the collection was extremely simple. By focusing on wearable and well-made separates, Blazy has certainly signaled its intention for the future of the Italian brand.

Muted hues – dark browns, ocher and navy blue – were the centerpieces of the collection, while pops of bright red and yellow provided a welcome start. Splashes of sequins interrupted the tonal ready-to-wear, especially towards the end of the collection where flowing, sheer dresses were paired with silver and gold metallic boots. Although deep greens were seen painted on form-fitting evening dresses and knee-high boots, Daniel Lee’s infamous “Bottega Green” was notably absent.

Lucious leather outerwear, fringed circular dresses and oversized suits were common themes this season for Blazy, while sartorial adventures such as fur trim and latex juxtaposed the already chic silhouettes. Plus, as you’d expect with the Italian brand, accessories have been a major anchor throughout the collection. The brand’s signature ‘intrecciato’ woven technique has been seen on shoulder bags, statement boots and brightly colored belts and is sure to be a commercial hit.

Time will tell if the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy, will receive the commercial and industrial success of Daniel Lee. While Blazy revived key silhouettes from the brand’s storied past, it introduced a host of key silhouettes and design hallmarks to keep an eye out for – knee-high boots, mismatched knits and lots of leather. . And if the Belgian designer’s fall debut is any indicator, he’ll be on the tip of the industry’s tongue sooner rather than later.

Credits: Images courtesy of Bottega Veneta.

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