Gabriela Hearst Resort 2023

Abstract swirls she’s been scribbling to relax on since she was a child, crocheted knitwear made in Italy by artisans bringing their individual pieces together into one, sustainable recycled denim discovered in a conversation shared at the British Fashion Awards … fashion mom Gabriela Hearst designs in such an intimate and feminine way, how can you not fall in love?

This Resort 2023 collection began with the dream of a female chef on a horse, atop mountains of fire, which she transformed into a powerful range of craft-intensive knits, armor-like bodice dresses and of embossed leather coats and accessories establishing these iconic swirls. as a kind of new alternative logo.

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“I want my wives to feel very patronizing,” she said.

Hell, yeah.

Hearst herself has been riding horses for so long that she can’t remember when she first learned. And she drew on her Uruguayan equestrian heritage for the leatherwork that ran through the collection. There were skimpy coats and jackets in swirled embossed leather with whipstitched lapels and swirled engraved concho buttons. Boots, shopping bags and sandals for gaucho women too. And a stunning black silk cady dress with blouson sleeves and a deep-V leather bodice was custom-made for Aspen if her brand reappears there this holiday season.

Swirls have also made their way into amazing crochet lace dresses. Handmade knitwear is something of an obsession for Hearst, from the seasonal collaborations she does with the Manos del Uruguay collective, to the heather yarn sweater and skirt sets she regularly produces.

This season, she experimented with a mix of pointelle colors on a fire-hued bodice that was needle felted over a woven black pleated skirt for a dress that was a feat of engineering.

She also brought a traditional cable knit over a hug of a white poncho, inspired by her husband’s love for the sea — no polluting yachts, she clarified, just sailboats.

The menswear assortment was super minimal with clean cuts and a monochrome palette. Hearst said while she’s willing to take more risks with her womenswear, she’s “very, very respectful” of her male client and knows she has to take baby steps before making any dramatic changes. . So she hasn’t strayed from the message she’s created so far, as evidenced by pea coats, double-faced trench coats and cable knit sweaters.

She offered a personal touch with the utility sailor coat which was tied at the neck with a custom designed closure which was half stirrup/half sailor shackle. He was inspired by his own marriage. “He’s a water person, I’m a land person,” she said.

Another family reference was a sweater with a portrait of a female warrior on the front, actually her mother, Sonia.

Hearst may be a dreamer, but when it comes to dressing women, she’s always been down-to-earth, which is why denim is often part of her vision. This season was made in collaboration with East London Vintage Denim, or ELV, which launched in 2018 and creates bespoke, ready-to-wear two-tone or matching denim pieces.

Founder Anne Foster, whom Hearst met at the British Fashion Awards, said it takes the same amount of water a person drinks in 13 years to produce a single pair of new jeans. ELV only uses seven liters per pair to wash post-consumer denim waste.

For Hearst, she created upcycled flares and patchwork denim shirts of curved lines, evoking the iconic swirls.

Thick, bias-cut silk dresses, some with off-the-shoulder ties, silk cashmere suits and blouses, jumpsuits and comfortable reflexology sandals complete casual and everyday wardrobe options for active women.

Dividing her time between Chloé and her own brand, Hearst knows a bit more, sharing that she recently cut her hair, which she hadn’t done in years, because she didn’t have time. to go to the living room.

“I have a lot of talent,” she laughs. “I can read tarot cards, I take them to parties, only now I don’t charge because I don’t need them.”

If that fashion trick doesn’t work, she has options. —Jean Palmieri contributed to this report.

Launch Gallery: Gabriela Hearst Resort 2023

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