Matty Bovan boosts Milanese fashion, Armani offers elegance


By COLLEEN BARRY – AP Fashion Editor

MILAN (AP) — Milan Fashion Week came to a close on Sunday after five days of previews for most womenswear that celebrated diversity and renewal, with more color designers represented than ever and a multitude of new talents making their debuts in the big fashion houses.

The Italian fashion council was promoting sustainability with the return of the Green Carpet awards on Sunday night recognizing progress in practices that reduce industry waste and its carbon footprint.

Even as the fashion world raised awareness about sustainability, this season’s schedule featured unsustainable trajectories between shows, forcing the fashion crowd to cycle back and forth, multiple times in a day, through an already lockdown city. . Even cycling proved a challenge with few cycle paths on the routes.

Fashion week ended as Italians headed to the polls for an off-season parliamentary election that could push Italian politics sharply to the right, something on the minds of many in the fashion world who have advocated for migrant rights and a law that would criminalize hate crimes against gays, women and the disabled.

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Giorgio Armani cast his vote early, even as he prepared the finishing touches to his show and appearance at the Green Carpet Awards. Asked about the elections, he replied: “Let it be a productive day. Stop.”

Some highlights from Sunday, the closing day of Milan Fashion Week:

MATTY BOVAN’S ‘SHAPESHIFTER’

“It’s a new energy for Milan,” Stefano Gabbana told British designer Matty Bovan backstage. “Bravo”, launched Domenico Dolce.

Bovan, who had just made his Milan Fashion Week debut on Sunday, sponsored by Dolce & Gabbana, was still flush, after sprinting down the runway, in a physical display of his energy that was captured on a creative level in his new collection.

“I’m exhausted,” Bovan confessed to fashion reporters moments earlier. “I haven’t raced like this in years.”

Bovan said his colourful, decidedly energetic and fantastical collection reflects “the best of English surrealism”.

The collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana gave him access to the workshops of the design duo, and Bovan was always overwhelmed by the quality of their know-how “I have never seen work like this. I have never had access to such work. It’s just one ladder,” he said.

Milan stalwarts also supply handbags, denim and corsetry, which Bovan worked on with embroidery, crochet or paint, around 90% of that in her own hand.

The looks were completed with mostly unsold materials from his previous collections, including loud sequined geometric prints and knits he built into layered skirts and bustles, which were by no means reserved for women alone. . And he added gold brocade featuring Matty Bovan, like mermaid skirts and ruffled shawls.

Dolce & Gabbana jeans have been ripped, torn, patched with embroidery and painted. Their bags were painted and stored upside down. And reissued corsets in special colors and sizes shaped the looks.

Bovan said Dolce & Gabbana’s take on femininity combined well with what he called her “very twisted feminine.” So it was a really fun collaboration.

GIORGIO ARMANI’S GOLDEN THREADS

Giorgio Armani’s collection for next spring and summer was a study in shimmering elegance.

The collection opened with pearly whites and moved on to subdued blues, greens and greys, all coalesced around a notion of spiritual tranquility.

This harmony was evident in the soft construction, layers of translucent material that draped and moved with the form. In a kind of alchemy, the pants looked like skirts, and the skirts like pants. As a more powerful palette appeared, some skin began to show: a long linen shirt opened demurely to show a torso above chocolate pants. Beaded jackets paired with flowing pants and mandala prints brought to life a series of formal daytime looks with silk pants.

The collection culminated with crystal accented looks in the most shimmering whites, each a meditation on what fashion means to the mind.

“I can’t make a dress without at least a bit of sequins,” the 88-year-old designer said after the show.

REBUILT BENETTON FROM THE MESH

Benetton is embarking on a new remake, this time under the creative direction of Andrea Incontri, a Milanese designer with experience in numerous fashion houses, including Tod’s.

An architect by training, Incontri wants to reshape Benetton’s retail experience and gutted the Corso Buenos Aires flagship store for his catwalk debut as creative director.

Upstairs, her new collection – filled with colorful repeating patterns of fruit, pretty knits and mixed tweeds – hung against a bare tiled wall, in neatly organized and easy-to-study constellations.

Underscoring its desire to start with the consumer, Incontri staged the show on the ground floor, allowing passers-by a glimpse.

The modern silhouette includes culottes – a hot trend in Milan for the upcoming spring and summer – and leather Obi belts that shape crisp cotton dresses or matching cotton shirt-short sets for men, if they feel so bold.

The brand’s famous sweaters are lovely in a mix, which layer well. A crop top gives a modern touch to a ribbed tunic and pants, as cozy as they are chic. Knit Biker Shorts turn a tweed skirt and jacket into active daywear. Fruit patterns create a cornucopia of mix-and-match looks: the reds, pinks and yellows of cherries, pears and apples all line up happily against greens, sky blues and yellows.

Incontri gave the Benetton octopus logo a much-needed graphic update, rolling it out sparingly, and it created collars with the B and E for Benetton, in the spirit of personalization popular with Gen-Z. Barely six months in office, Incontri promises an even more complete makeover of the 57-year-old brand, which has experienced periods of discomfort.

While Benetton’s heyday is strongly associated with Oliviero Toscani’s socially avant-garde United Colors of Benetton advertising campaigns, Incontri wants to put the product and the consumer first.

“It’s a brand for which I feel a lot of affection, like many Italians, because I grew up with it,” Incontri told reporters.

FERRARI CLOTHES GAIN TRACTION

Super sports car maker Ferrari’s foray into luxury goods is finding ground with its hoped-for high-end auto buyers, but also Formula 1 fans whose garages don’t house quite the same power.

Rocco Iannone, creative director of Ferrari’s fashion line, said he saw the effect at the Italian Grand Prix at Monza earlier this month. Many Formula 1 fans would buy expensive bespoke Ferrari clothing and show up the next day wearing it on the race track “with badges and all the iconic elements”.

“That mix is ​​what interests me to say: they exist and we want to give them a wardrobe,” Ianonne said.

Iannone’s third collection focuses on what the creative director called Ferrari’s “primordial materials”: leather, denim, cotton and silk.

The new collection combines pieces that Formula 1 fans would covet, including racing suits and pit jackets adorned with iconic patches, as well as stylish pieces incorporating Ferrari technology with more subtlety.

The Jacquard cargo pants are made from recycled nylon, which gives a camouflage look. The denim is technological, each piece treated with ozone sprays to give a color washed effect without the usual environmental damage. And Napa glove leather is used to make soft leather suits in a deep red with orange or black undertones.

“The objective is to embrace the soul of Ferrari through a sharp, precise and mixed wardrobe”, Iannone.

TRUSSARDI’S TRANSFORMATION

The Berlin designers who have taken over the creative direction of Milanese fashion house Trussardi say they are behind a “non-linear and chaotic” transformation.

“It’s a meeting between magic and realism, past and future, dream and pragmatism, modernity and heredity,” said Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby of their deep dive to restructure Trussardi.

It’s about as confessional as the designers can get when they unveiled their second Trussardi collection on Saturday in Milan’s neoclassical Palazzo Clerici, in one of the most beautiful and ornate rooms in the city.

The collection combines Trussardi classics with urban looks that embrace both pragmatism and streetwear.

The designers of the GmbH brand have made the polo shirt the workhorse of the Trussardi collection, but combining it in daring combinations, such as shiny leather culottes with a racing front. More wisely, the polo shirt featured a square collar that can be unbuttoned wisely, and paired with Bermuda shorts and a banana back, perfect for a day in the city.

Jersey-cut dresses drape the body, while voluminous crocodile leather and slim-fit denim provide urban armor.

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