Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2023 show was all about the cargo pocket

“Every message is a translation, but nothing has ever been translated.” So reads the top of the notes left on each seat of the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2023 show. Waiting inside the circular Palais d’Iéna (the former Public Works Museum from the late 1930s), excited sat on tube benches, while immersed in Shuang Li’s out-of-space and time multimedia installation. With videos featuring interstellar animation by Linyou Xie (and a dreamlike soundtrack by Eli Osheyack), the Chinese artist based in Berlin and Geneva evoked broken and labyrinthine wires, under the bottom of the ocean, which constitute the “cloud” on which we depend so much.

Meanwhile, Miu Miu’s must-have It celebs – all wearing Fall/Winter 2022 looks – began their procession posing in front of the backdrop of Li’s wire-mesh door. Several, including Zaya Wade, Chiara Ferragni and Emily in Paris‘ actor Camille Razat was dressed in the now-iconic (but still polarizing) mini mini-skirts, while others were stunted in the season’s micro leather pants and crystal-embellished sheer dresses – also giving a point of reference for Muiccia Prada’s vision for Spring 2023.

Zaya WadeDominique Charriau/Getty Images Entertainment

“The timelessness of Miu Miu was born out of the impact of the 90s, an era that marked the beginning of an explosion of communication, individuality, etc., and which resonates in my work,” said the collaborating artist Li. WWD in a teaser for the show. The statement could also relate to the show’s ratings header, as Prada revisited and reinvented its late ’90s hits: sculptural bubble shapes, knee-length pleated skirts, low but utilitarian dividers, short shorts and a belt. Bags.

Setting the tone, the intro look featured variegated layers of silky cotton thermal dresses that were gathered and crinkled. He Brought 1999 The matrix in mind, but not the sleek black leather that dominated the runways in 2018 – it instead hinted at the film’s stylized, yet gritty, and unsimulated reality world of recycled military clothing. Perhaps reflecting the communication element of 21st century themes, Prada transformed sport-tech parachute pieces into oversized puff-sleeved parkas and long-collared windbreakers, all with shiny, open zippers. . She also softened the tactical look of the archetype with sartorial silhouettes, like a reverse ruffled collar style and gray empire waist corset layer and Regency Era over a Miu Miu logo underwire bra.

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The baggy, boxy blazer on tiny separates from previous seasons evolves into jackets with raw edges – as if the inner silk lining is disintegrating. Mini-shorts and miniskirts are now embellished with two zipped pockets that are too bulky; almost cannibalize the need for one of the chic top-handle mini-suitcase bags in the upcoming collection. Prada also plays with the roomy pocket pattern on structured, distressed leather jackets and knee-length vests, mid-calf shorts with the raw edge that pops out, and the belt bags themselves. Mini-mini naysayers will be happy to see hem lengths reaching the knee (or below) in sheer sherbet-colored and beaded styles, pleated A-length parachutes and other stonewashed denim pencil silhouettes. acid reminiscent of the 80s.

The runway presentation began to end with Emily Ratajkowski in a tactical twist on a bandeau crop, complete with a release buckle (and maybe a small, inconspicuous functional pocket?) and a knee-length leather skirt with the zipped pockets aforementioned. Bella Hadid followed in a similar, but streamlined top with a black skirt (also reminiscent of famous Calvin Klein commercials from the 90s.) FKA Twigs closed the show in a navy blue cable-knit sweater, over a crisp white button-up shirt French cuffs, but worn as a dress. Around her waist: the collection’s signature double-pocket belt bag, but enhanced with an elegant black silk satin.

Much like the show’s conclusion notes, “Messages lost in transmission don’t just disappear, but instead, imagined here, can take on another form.” punctuating the sky.

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